It was 5.30 am and I was standing on the roadside in the heart of Luang Prabang. I had just landed and was sleepy, hungry and restless.

I was waiting for some of the guesthouses to open so that I could search for a room. The locals were already up and about. Milkmen hurrying with cans. A motorbike or two whizzing past. Then, a few people began trickling in with pails of rice. Settling on the pavement opposite, they began their wait for the monks. It was time for the “tak bat” or alms giving ceremony.

In a few minutes, I saw silent figures in saffron approaching. The people with rice reverently put big chunks into their outstretched bowls. The monks bowed and moved on. As silently, they continued in a line and disappeared down the road. Surreal. Peaceful. I felt a wave of calm. I hadn’t given anything. But I had certainly received their peace. I was ready for Luang Prabang.

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